Fashion will only be sustainable when the rules change
We are always looking for opportunities to innovate at Sizzle, particularly when it could deliver a globally positive impact. We believe systemic change can be achieved through collaborative effort, breaking echo-chambers, shifting legislation, inspiring individual and community-wide action and making available more ethical options. Unsurprisingly, we have been considering what is arguably one of the world’s most broken systems as a future focus: the UK’s fast fashion industry.
As the environmental spotlight has increasingly shone on the fashion industry, there have been a plethora of company sustainability announcements. Invariably these have focussed on recycling, reselling, upcycling or producing new fabrics. Whilst these are all steps in the right direction, virtually none tackle the fundamental issue facing the fashion sector: over-production.
Between 2000 and 2014, clothing production doubled. According to the World Bank, the current growth trajectory would see world clothing sales grow by 65% by 2030. Fashion brand Shein achieved a quadrupling of sales between 2019 -2021 and at one-point surpassed Amazon as the world’s most downloaded app. This has huge environmental and ethical impacts. Fashion production makes up 10% of humanity’s carbon emissions, adversely hits biodiversity through monoculture farming and creates waste, with 85% of all textiles being dumped annually.
To tackle over-production the fashion industry needs to find a new model: enabling it to generate value in ways other than exponential growth. To date, few answers have appeared, and most companies are avoiding the challenge. Having actively participated in the sustainable fashion debate for the past ten years, Sizzle founder Trewin Restorick has reached the conclusion that fashion will only become sustainable if the ‘rules of the game’ change. The current business model is too profitable and the pressures for change are too insufficient for the bulk of the sector to shift. Without tighter legislation, there is no imperative for the industry to fundamentally change in a way that will lead to a more sustainable use of resources, less exploitation and reduced social pressure - particularly on young people.
Is there any indication that this change is on the way? Globally there are a few rays of hope, with France and the US proving that governments can catalyse systemic shifts. New legislation includes greater supply chain traceability, transparent product labelling, a curb on greenwashing and extended producer responsibility. This is all aimed at cutting pre- and post-consumer waste.
These policy changes have implications across international supply chains in this global industry, creating ripples that will spread. However, there is little indication that the UK will follow suit. Research from Buy Better UK revealed that since 2007, the UK has published 19 policies to tackle sustainability in fashion. These have had minor impact and only one contained costs or timeframes.
With little indication of legislative pressures being exerted in the UK, creating systemic change may be elusive. How then, can the industry change? For us, those advocating change need to be bolder in their ambition and more collaborative in their approach. Whilst individual company steps should be applauded, there must be recognition that wider change is required. Specifically, change advocates should be seeking to:
Propose a compulsory legislative framework for a more sustainable fashion sector that is appropriate, effective and just.
Frame the proposed legislative framework so that it chimes with policymakers.
Create a cohort of influencers and highly engaged citizens who can authentically promote the benefits of a new framework.
Build momentum behind the need for a new legislative framework by adding to the debate in the press and social media, informed by a Citizens Jury.
Work with policy experts to drive forward elements of the framework that fit with forthcoming legislative ambitions.
Assess the readiness of fashion companies to comply with the suggested legislation
Creating mandatory league tables to reinforce leadership and challenge laggards.
This process of change is complex, slow and costly. It needs to be advocated by organisations who have independence and authenticity. If successful, it will yield long-term benefits rather than short-term financial reward. Securing the necessary levels of funding required to drive this change is incredibly difficult - there are precious few funders willing to take the necessary risk.
It is for this reason that Sizzle has reluctantly decided that this is not an area of experimentation for us. As a small start-up, we simply don’t have the resources to drive the change necessary. However, that doesn’t mean we have given up hope: we are more than willing to provide any support we can to larger organisations. Hopefully others can take-up the challenge as fundamental change is needed to truly make fashion sustainable.
If you are interested in fashion sustainability and the potential for an equitable circular economy, please do get in touch. You may also be interested in the work of: